A deck is one of the few home improvements that adds usable living space and visible value at the same time. The price range is wide, though, and most of the spread comes from decisions about material, size and structure that are worth understanding before you compare bids.
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A good deck quote specifies decking material by brand and grade, joist spacing, footing type and depth, railing system, and whether permits and inspection are included. Ledger attachment detail is worth asking about specifically, since it is the connection most often implicated in deck failures.
Frequently yes, and the triggers are usually size and height. Many jurisdictions require a permit once a deck passes roughly 200 square feet, and many exempt uncovered decks whose surface sits below about 30 inches above grade provided they do not affect egress. Anything attached to the house, roofed, or carrying a hot tub is much more likely to require one regardless of size. Because these thresholds vary between neighboring municipalities, confirm with your local building department rather than relying on a general rule. There is a real reason to want the permit beyond compliance: the inspection checks the ledger connection and footing depth, which are exactly the details that cause deck collapses when they are done badly. Unpermitted structural work also tends to surface awkwardly during a home sale.
It depends on how long you plan to keep the house and how you feel about maintenance. Composite and PVC cost meaningfully more up front, often close to double a pressure-treated build, but they do not need sanding, staining or sealing, and they resist splintering and rot. Wood needs cleaning and refinishing every few years, and that cost compounds quietly over a decade. If you are staying long term and dislike weekend maintenance, composite frequently wins on total cost of ownership. If you are selling within a few years, or you want the specific look and feel of real cedar, the premium is harder to justify. A useful middle path is composite for the deck surface where wear and moisture concentrate, with wood used for the framing underneath, which is standard practice anyway.
Sometimes, and it is worth having assessed properly rather than assumed either way. Resurfacing over a sound frame is considerably cheaper than a full rebuild, and if the joists, ledger, posts and footings are in good condition it is a sensible option. What rules it out is structural deterioration, and the parts that fail are frequently the parts you cannot see: the ledger where the deck attaches to the house, the joist ends, and the footings. Older decks also sometimes fail to meet current code on joist spacing or ledger attachment, in which case a permit for the resurfacing work can require the frame to be brought up to standard. Ask any contractor quoting a resurface to explain what they inspected and what they found before you accept the lower number.
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