Electrical work is the trade where doing it properly matters most and where the consequences of cutting corners are least visible until something goes badly wrong. Outdated or overloaded wiring is a leading cause of house fires, and almost all of it is preventable.
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Any quote should confirm the contractor is licensed for electrical work specifically, since a general contractor license frequently does not cover it, and should state that permits and inspection are included. Never accept a proposal to do panel or circuit work without a permit.
The clearest indicators are breakers that trip repeatedly, lights that dim when a large appliance starts, outlets or switch plates that feel warm, any burning smell or scorch marks, and a reliance on power strips because there are too few outlets. Older homes with two-prong ungrounded outlets, fuse boxes rather than breakers, or a service rating below 100 amps are frequently under-provisioned for modern loads, and homes with knob-and-tube or aluminum branch wiring warrant assessment regardless of symptoms. Treat anything involving heat, burning smells or scorching as urgent rather than something to monitor, stop using the affected circuit, and have it looked at promptly. An electrical inspection is inexpensive relative to what it protects against and is worth doing on any home purchase over about forty years old.
For most work beyond swapping a like-for-like fixture, yes. Panel upgrades, new circuits, rewiring and service changes almost always require a permit and inspection, and the inspection is genuinely valuable rather than bureaucratic, since it independently verifies work you will never see once the walls close. Unpermitted electrical work carries real consequences beyond code compliance: insurers can decline claims arising from it, it surfaces during home sales and can hold up closing, and if it was done badly you have very little recourse. If a contractor suggests skipping the permit or asks you to pull it in your own name, treat that as a signal about their licensing status rather than a way to save money, and get quotes from someone else.
It depends almost entirely on your existing panel and the distance from it to where you park. A Level 2 charger needs a dedicated 240-volt circuit, so the questions are whether your panel has both the spare capacity and a free double-pole slot, and how far the cable has to run. A garage directly beside the panel with capacity available is a straightforward job. A detached garage, a long run through finished space, or a panel already at capacity that needs upgrading first are all substantially larger projects. Have the electrician assess your panel before you buy hardware, since the answer may influence which charger makes sense. Check for utility rebates and tax credits as well, which are common for EV charging and can offset a meaningful share of the installation.
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